Red Zebra Labs

Getting to Cat Ba Island was a long string of different transport methods. First, a moto-taxi to the bus station. Then a bus to Ha Long Bay. Then another bus to the dock, where a boat was waiting. Finally, a third bus from the port on Cat Ba to the town. On the way down we met an Australian couple, Andy and Krystal, who were returning to Cat Ba for a 3rd time in as many years. They had just come from climbing at Tonsai Beach, where the place we’d stayed at in March was going for 250 Baht a night, down from the 400 we’d paid while we were there. Andy was climbing at a level close to Jody’s while Krystal and I were close, though she didn’t do any lead climbing. They also had gear, meaning if we climbed with them we wouldn’t have to rent.

We found a place pretty quickly along the main road. Many places were offering room in the 8-15$ range, some with dazzling views. Our room was on the 5th floor with an ocean view. There was no elevator, no A/C, but Cat Ba wasn’t as hot as southern Vietnam, and sometimes the hot water didn’t work. But seriously, for 6$ a night (3 each), it was hard to complain.

The next 2 days we climbed. I managed to climb most of a 6b (about 5.10b) and finished a few 6a’s. The one climb I lead was late in the day, and by the time I was done it was dark and I shaking so bad I couldn’t even make my anchor. Fortunately Jody was able to climb up and clean the rock quickly. For lunch both days the people who lived just below the crag made us this HUGE delicious meal. It was hard to get up and climb afterwards, so we’d spend some quality time in the hammocks nearby before heading back out.

The 3rd day wasn’t good. I was still kinda shaky from the day before. In addition to the lead climbing I’d manage to damage the motorbike we rented, which wasn’t doing anything good for my self esteem. Jody didn’t wake up in the happiest of moods either. Plus it was cold and rainy. We took a walk to the nearby beaches, which were tranquil and deserted. I was really hoping to go swimming in the ocean with Jody, clearly that wasn’t going to happen. Jody then left for the crag for the roast goat they were having, and I stayed in our room, feeling tired and needing a break.

The next day greeted us with more cold and rain. We had opted to take a boat ride out around the islands, so it worked out nicely for a non-climbing day. We had 2 other couples with us. We did some kayaking around the coves and islands when the rain didn’t keep us hiding in the boat. For dinner that night the 6 of us headed to the Green Mango, one of the best (and most expensive) restaurants in town. The food was very, very good. There was a resident kitten that came up to visit us a few times

Our final full day was sunny. Andy and Krystal weren’t feeling up to climbing, so it was just the 2 of us. Many of the other climbers in town had gone deep water soloing, but I wasn’t interested. We ended up being the only people at the crag that day. I did another lead climb and felt a lot better about my leading abilities. Note to self – only lead very easy routes to get my confidence up. There’s no point in trying to lead a 5.9 if all I’m going to do afterwards is feel shitty that I didn’t make it up.

As much as we didn’t want to leave, after 5 full days we were heading back to Hanoi to catch a train to out final Vietnamese destination, Sapa.

(We were in Cat Ba April 22-28)

So, I have 2 weeks left on my trip.

How do I feel?

Right now I’m sad. It’s funny, 2 weeks ago I was really excited to come home, now I’m wishing I’d spend my time more effectively the last 2 weeks. Or done things differently. I’ve been looking at the photos of Vietnam and wondering why I didn’t just leave China when I was feeling like it was enough. Gone to Korea or Indonesia or Nepal, or even back to Thailand or Vietnam? Now I can’t really change my plans, and who knows when I’m coming back to this area?

Got to see Jody for 1 day while he was between legs of his journey (the Lhasa-Kathmandu bike trip and the Trans-Siberian Railway trip). It made me happy to see him but at the same time I know it’s going to be a while until we get to spend a lot of time together again.

Sigh. Maybe I’ll change my ferry to a flight so I can get to Japan a day or 2 earlier.

(An afterthought – I think my sugars are low. I’ve not had much to eat today)

(written June 23rd, somewhere between Beijing and Shanghai)

The Montreal Fringe festival is going on right now.

I’m in Harbin, and it’s not quite as awesome as I hoped

This makes me sad.

I come home in a bit more than 3 weeks, and right now, I’m really looking forward to it.

Number 3? in the Foreigners as Rock Stars in Asia series (FARSIA)

We’re on a 24 hour overnight train from Beijing to Xining. Distance wise, it’s a bit less than going from Winnipeg to Vancouver.It’s the last overnight journey Jody and I will take together on this trip. We’re in the “hard sleeper” class, which is actually quite comfortable but crowded. There are no walls separating the corridor with the bays of 3 tier high bunk beds. Our beds are on the bottom, meaning they double as seats for the other 4 people in the compartment, and/or their friends.

We are surrounded by Chinese people. Before we even left Beijing West station someone asked us how long we’d been in China. But his wording is confusing, we figure out what he’s asking by writing down the question. Further attempts of small talk were futile, since our temporary travelling companions knew very little English, and our knowledge or Mandarin is limited to the words “Hello, thank you, no, west, Yuan (the currency used in China,)” and names of cities. One of the men is curious about Jody’s zip-off cargo pants. The girl across from us starts to count in English. I help her a bit. Then I take my list of handy words and phrases I’d ripped out of Lonely Planet. I try to count to 10, but the only numbers I really know are 1, 5 and 10. The crowd of Chinese people around us laugh. Someone starts singing the alphabet but gets lost around G. I help them, They smile. I start to feel less like a Rock Star and more like an zoo inhabitant.

For a bit they leave us alone. Then the girl trying to count wants pictures of us. We pose for pictures with her, with the guys travelling with her. I start to feel like a Rock Star again. A bit later counting girl tries to get us to sing. After a few minutes of thinking I start singing Row Row Row Your Boat and she is delighted. I try to teach it to her. She gets the first line after a few tries but can’t pronounce the word “gently” and the rest of the line is more vowel sounds then anything. The second part was pretty good, by this point she’s forgotten the first bit. But it’s all good.

Jody opens his laptop and shows people our pictures of elephants. A small crowd gathers around. Soon half the carriage is looking. They tell us the Chinese word for elephant (I think it’s Tasio or Tasia). We show them some picture of cats (Mo, pronounced like “no” but with more of a falling tone). Counting girl asks us if we have kids. We answer “no, cats” and they laugh. Another girl wants a picture with us. I start to feel like Santa Claus. We sing Row Row Row Your Boat again and the Chinese people applaud.

Later on, they notice Jody’s shirt (a bunny mounting a duck from behind) and have a laugh at the caption “WRONG” underneath. We show them more pictures of cats. They smile.

Sometimes, it’s fun to pretend you’re a rock star.

I’m tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiired.

For the past 4ish weeks it’s been city hopping non stop. Since we left Cat Ba, Vietnam at the end of April we’ve changed locations every day, or every second day.

This is where I’ve been in the past few weeks (Note, the spelling of many of the cities could very well be incorrect).

Cat Ba (Vietnam)→ Nigh train to Sapa from Hanoi (1 night)
Sapa (2 nights)
Sapa → Cross border to China → Overnight bus to Kunming (1 night)
Day in Kunming → Overnight train to Lijiang (1 night)
Day in Lijiang (1 night)
Tiger Leaping Gorge trek day 1, overnight on the trail (1 night)
Tiger leaping Gorge trek day 2, back to Lijiang for the night (1 night)
Train Lijiang -> Dali, spent the day and night there (1 night)
Bus Dali -> Kunming, overnight train to Guilyn (1 night)
Bus Guilyn-> Yangshou, stay there (2 nights)
Bus back to Guilyn, overnight train to Guanzhou (1 night)
Train Guangzhou → Hong Kong, stay in HK (2 nights)
Train HK → Guangzhou, stay there (2 nights)
Overnight train Guangzhou → Shanghai (1 night)
Stay Shanghai (1night)
Overnight train Shanghai → Beijing (1 night)

We arrived in Beijing early Tuesday morning. It’s now Friday. I’ve seen the Great Wall as a day trip from the hostel. Absolutely amazing. Wednesday afternoon we went to Tianamen’s Square and the Forbidden City but didn’t go in or take pictures. And that’s all I’ve done in Beijing, other than sleep, eat and loaf around the hostel. I feel like I should have more get up and go, but I don’t. We’re here until Tuesday afternoon, so I still have time.

I’m not unhappy though. Just feeling a bit worn out. Unfortunately, I don’t like feeling worn out. I don’t think anyone does. And when your travel partner has lots more energy than you do, it can be tough when you want to be doing stuff with them and barely have the energy to walk 3 blocks for lunch. Meanwhile, Jody’s out getting a bike for his upcoming Himalayan adventure.

I think today I will relax, and eventually give myself permission to stop feeling unhappy about needing to rest. Maybe I should try relaxing somewhere other then the hostel. Get some tea.